"HAIR STRUCTURE" Hair Follicle & Hair Shaft

HAIR STRUCTURE

Hairs are elongated keratinized structures. Keratin is a special protein, which is resistant to wear and tear. It is the protein that also makes up the nails. Like other proteins in the body, keratin is also a large molecule made up of smaller units called amino acids. The amino acids are joined together in a chain, like beads on a string.

The diameter of a single hair fiber varies from person to person; but it is usually around 0.05 to 0.09 millimeters.

The epidermis is the outermost layer of the skin. Each hair arises from an indentation on the epidermis. The hair has two parts: the hair follicle and the hair shaft.

Hair Follicle

The hair follicle is the point from which the hair grows. It is a tiny cup-shaped pit buried in the fat of the scalp.

The terminal part of the hair follicle seated within the skin is called a hair bulb. The hair bulb is the structure formed by actively growing cells. These cells produce the long, fine and cylindrically shaped hair fibers. Here in the hair bulb, there are some special cells, which produce the pigment that gives the hair its color. This pigment is called melanin and the cells producing it are known as melanocytes. We also know that receptors for the male hormones - androgens, are located on the cells of this structure.

At the base of each hair bulb is the dermal papilla containing a vessel tuft. Thus, it is essential for the nourishment of the growing hairs. Within the skin, internal and external root sheaths cover the hair follicles. The external root sheath of a hair follicle is continuous along with the epidermis. There are also some glands adjacent to the hair follicles. The most important one of these glands is the sebaceous gland, which produces and secretes the natural oils lubricating hairs, namely sebum.

HAIR SHAFT

The part of the hair seen above the skin is called the hair shaft. The hair shaft is made up of dead cells that have turned into keratin and binding material, together with small amounts of water. This structure explains why we do not feel any pain while our hair is being cut.

The hair shaft is formed by three layers. The innermost layer of the hair shaft is named the medulla. It is seen only in large and thick hairs. The middle layer of the hair shaft is called the cortex, made of keratin fibers. The strength, color and texture of a hair fiber are provided by the cortex layer of the hair shaft. The outermost layer of the hair shaft is the cuticle. This thin and colorless layer made up of between six to ten overlapping layers of long cell remnants, serves as a protection to the cortex.

13 weeks post... 8th month into my HHJ "Shrinkage while Stretching"!!!

I have got a lot of shrinkage, but I can still see my hair growth/length retention!!! I think I have about 2 1/2 inches of new growth since nov. 25, 2012 when I did my texlax. On my 6 month anniversary Dec. 27, 2012, I was still at the same length I was on Nov. 25, 2012 which the longest part of my hair was at the 4 line... I have a texture shot below this pic.... @ the bottom of the second pic, you can see my hair looks straigthened, that's the front of my head. I had to bend down to take the pic to get a good close up of my roots. That straightness is the result of my flaxseed gel slicking my edges down ever so sweet while I rock my buns! I LOVE my flaxseed gel, I will NEVER use the clear kind again!!! I am stretching until march 25, 2013 (4 months) I may try to stretch longer, it depends on how hectic my stretch gets, plus I like when I relax my roots, my shedding decreases tremendously!!! Oh yeah, the black tea rinse really does work ladies!

My Regimen is at:

http://mymanefitnesssupreme.blogspot.com/

 My Fitness Blog is at:

http://theswimsuitproject.blogspot.com/

"Glycerin" The Do's & Don't of Using Glycerine

                        "Glycerin" The Do's & Don't of Using Glycerine

I was reading a post on hairlista in regards to when to use, or when to NOT use "Glycerine" Apparently, this humectant is to be used only during the warmer seasons, but when the climate is cold, it has the opposite effect of drawing moisture from the air to your hair, and making the hair dry! I have noticed my hair has been extra dry lately, and not I am sure I have found the culprit! I'm glad I found this post because I have been putting glycerine in my hair butters & my water based moisturizing spritz!!! As of today Feb. 6, 2013, I will not put glycerine in my hair products during the winter seasons! Below is some information that explains the difference in low humidity, and high humidty conditions as they pertain to the use of glycerine....

Low Humidity

In extremely low-humidity conditions, such as a cold, dry winter air, there is no appreciable amount of water in the air for the humectant to attract to the surface of the hair. In this particular type of climate, the best one can hope for with most traditional humectants is for them to prevent evaporation of water from the hair into the environment. Also, under these circumstances, there is some risk of the humectant actually removing moisture from the cortex of the hair itself, creating the problem it was intended to prevent.

That’s why in dry climates it is important to use conditioning products which rely on strong moisturizers rather than traditional humectants. However, it is interesting to note that new humectants are being developed that perform well even in low humidity (such as hydroxypropyl bis-hydroxyethyldimonium chloride and dihydroxypropyltrimonium chloride).

High Humidity

In high-humidity conditions, such as summertime in the southeastern United States or the tropics — where the relative humidity can easily reach or exceed 90 percent during the day — there is a tremendous amount of moisture in the air. This can be disastrous for curly hair. If curly hair is dry and damaged, it is very porous, and easily absorbs water from the air. In high-humidity conditions, this can cause curly hair to swell so much that cuticles are raised, making the surface of the hair very rough. These cuticles can then become entangled with cuticles of adjacent hairs and create a huge, tangled mass, which is prone to breakage. Also, curly hair swollen by excess water can lose its curl pattern, creating the dreaded summer frizz.

Clearly, products heavy in humectants will only exacerbate problems with humidity-induced frizz. Some humectants can also develop a sticky feeling when they become saturated with water, which is certainly an undesirable characteristic for hair. Thus, in tropical and subtropical climates, it is essential to maintain well-moisturized hair that is in good condition (which will be less prone to absorbing water from the hair). But it is preferable to use products containing fewer humectants or humectants with less hygroscopic capacity.

Due to the limitations and pitfalls of humectants in extreme weather conditions, it is apparent that these ingredients probably function best for curly-haired consumers in moderate climates, with temperatures and humidity in the medium range.

My HHJ Regimen "UPDATE"

I left the previous product on the list, but I crossed them out as I eliminated them. I have added a few products to my regimen, but I am trying to keep it as simple as possible! HHJ!

                                                My Regimen "UPDATE"

                                                             Pic Taken Dec. 29, 2012

REGIMEN & PRODUCTS: 

Shampoo: 

1x/a wk w/ D/C & Protein& Moisture Shampoo & added Oregano Oil

"UPDATE"!!! (I shampoo every two weeks or more now)

Pre-Poo:

The night before, or hour's before every wash

Co-wash: 

1-2 x/week or more…..(I first dc with protein & Moisture conditioners mixed to keep the p/m balance protein, moisturizer & d/c) 

Deep Condition: 

1-2x/week with or without heat before shampoo & co washes

Clarify Shampoo: 

1x a month 

Texlax: 

Currently stretching for 12-20 weeks (7/6/12- 01,2013)

"UPDATE"Texlaxed Nov. 25, 2012

Trim, Dust:Every 4-6 months or when absolutely necessary

Moisturize and Seal: 

Day & Night or when needed Baggy Ends: 2-3 times a wk Day or night….. Bag ends w/ plastic bag or cap under ponytail, bedtime, etc..

Oil Scalp: Every night, or every other night (4-7 x's a wk) (Hairdrenalin)

"UPDATE"!!! Nov. 15, 2012: I no longer use hairdrenaline! I could not take the smell of the onion & garlic in my hair every night....

Massage Scalp:

Every Night or Day "UPDATE: I massage scalp 3 times a week....

Massage Temples:

2x's every day morning & night. (ORS Fertilizing Temple Balm)  "UPDATE: I massage temples and nape "UPDATE: I massage temple & nape 3 times a week....

Satin Bonnet/Scarf: 

Nightly & when I am relaxing @ home Greenhouse Effect: 1x/every 2 wks Massage Scalp: Nightly Protective Styles: 

99% of the time Buns, bantu knot outs, braid outs, wash & go.....

Low Manipulation: 

99% 

Protective Styles:

Buns, Bantu Knot Outs, Braid Outs,

"UPDATE" I still wear them sometimes but I now know that these styles are NOT Protective Styles

'Wigs, Wash & Go- (When my hair is APL)  Flexi rods, caruso steam rollerset... "UPDATE": I used my caruso rollerset for the first time on Dec 27, 2012... "I LOVE IT!!!!"

Baggy Ends & Sealing:

Every night, or as much as possible weekly. After I m/s, I braid my ends, then I roll them under & wrap a small rubber band around the tucked ends to secure my ends all night, then I tie my hair with satin scarf, wave cap, or a satin bonnet. My Sealant oil mix is: JBCO/Coconut oil, & EVOO... I also Bag my Nape area separately when I remember to do so, or when I think I need too....

GHE: 

As much as possible 3-5 x's a week

Flat Iron: 

1-x a month or every 4 months for texlax & length checks 

Blow dry: 

1x a month for length checks 

Comb Hair: 

Only during co wash & shampoo days 

Protein treatments:

Every month or when needed 1-2 eggs, evoo. Note:I DC after washing out egg & condition with moisture based shampoo & conditioner...

Banana Mask treatment:

My first one I did on Friday Nov. 30, 2012 (5 days after texlax Sunday Nov. 25, 2012)

Black Tea Rinse:

Did my first one Jan. 16, 2013!!!! I reakky like how healthy & strong my hair feels after I rinse it out! 

Tools & Accessories: 

Wide tooth comb, Boar brush, ouchless hair bands for ponytails and hair, Caruso Rollerset, Large Plastic Clips, Add on hair for buns 

Wish List: 

Flexi Rods, Hair Steamer, New Blow Dryer, New Flat Iron, A Home Salon Set-up! Vanity!!! "YAY, My Vanity was my Christmas present!!!, Split-Ender  ( Feb. 1, 2013)!!! :D 

Products:

"UPDATE" !!!!!: (Nov. 15, 2012) 

I am thinking of trying the aphogee line of products! I have the 2 minute keratin reconstructor, and the shampoo!

"UPDATE": Nov. 2012 "I have the Aphogee shampoo & 2 minute Reconstructer".. I used it 2 times in Nov. 2012 ...

Shampoos: 

Silicon Mix Shampoo Hidratante & Silicon Mix Protein De Perla Shampoo Fortificante Fortifying Shampoo I will be shampooing &/or Co-washing with Oregano Oil in mixes (Both Has Sodium Laureth Sulfate) Now that I am a Hairlsta, I now know to not use Shampoo w/ sulfate…I will use it until it’s gone!!! 

Conditioners:

Herbal Essence Hello Hydration Moisturizing Conditioner (on co- wash & shampoo days) (Has Alcohol mentioned 3 time in ingredients!- I will switch when it is gone) Silicon Mix “Proteina” De Perla Fortifying Hair Treatment Creme V05 Tea Therapy Revitalizing Conditioner "Blackberry Sage Tea" 

Deep Conditioner: 

Hollywood Beauty Olive Oil Cholesterol Deep Conditioning Crème!!!! “I LOVE THIS”!!!!!!

Leave In Conditioner:

"UPDATE": Jan. 16, 2013, I used my free sample of Kamazo Care "Aloe My Hair Leave- In Conditioner". I really like it, it's a moisturizing leave-in!!!...... Cantu Shea Butter Leave in Conditioning Creme!!! "LOVE IT"!!! :-)& or  mixed with my daily Shea Butter mix...  Silicon Mix Intensive Leave-in Hair Shine & Conditioner. Leave-in conditioner:Pantene Pro-V Restoratives Breakage Defense Detangling Leave-in Crème (Both have Alcohol)!!!!... I will use them until they are gone....

Clarifying Shampoo: 

Ion Purifying Solutions Clarifying Shampoo 

Moisturizer: 

Conditioner, water, castor oil, glycerine, aloe vera juice in a spray bottle.

ORS olive oil moisturizing hair for straigthened hair 

Hard Protein treatments: 

Eggs, Evoo."UPDATE:Nov. 15, 2012  Vo5 Coditioner 

Sealant: 

"UPDATE": Jan 16, 2013, I use JBCO to oil my scalp,EVOO for GHE and Coconut Oil to seal moisture  JBCO/Coconut oil EVOO mix, & Organic's Best Growth & Strengthening Oil Therapy with Argan Oil & EVOO or whatever natural oil I have @ the time, but my favorites are evoo, jbco, coconut oil, & argon oil. Safflower Oil & Grapeseed Oil sometimes...  

Supplements/Growth Aids: 

Biotin- 5mg (1x daily) & Biotin in my Hairdrenaline w/added coconut Oil 

Edges & Nape: 

"Massaging these areas every morning & night" ORS Fertilizing Temple Balm Hairdrenaline mix (For Nape Area)

"UPDATE:  Nov. 15, 2012: Now I just use my castor oil for my nape & edges... 

Silk/Satin Scarf or Bonnet:

GHE, (Green House Effect) I will do this when I feel the need or as often as possible! I like the way it makes my hair feel! :D

Noted Treatments:

 Clarifying Shampoo) July 27, 2012 

 Hard Protein Treatment: July 21, 2012 (1 egg, evoo, vo5)

 Clipped/Trimmed Ends: July 12, 2012 (1/2 inch) 

 Relaxers: March 2012 (LAST ONE) 

Hard Protein Treatment: Nov. 15, 2012 (2 eggs. evoo)

Texlaxed: July 2, 2012 , Nov. 25, 2012

Light dust: Nov. 25, 2012

Flatironed & Blow dryed: July 12, 2012, Aug. 11, 2012, Oct. 11, 2012, Nov. 25, 2012, Dec 27, 2012

Black Tea Rinse: Jan. 16, 2013 "First one, I like it"!!!

"I will tweek my regimen as I go along because some of my products have alcohol and sulfates in them. I have learned so much in a week since becoming a hairlista, about what not to use and what to use! It will take me a little time, but I will get there because it is sooooooo worth not being in hair bondage anymore!

Black Tea Rinse Success!!!

"Black Tea Rinse Benefits"

I did my first Black Tea Rinse Tuesday Jan. 16, 2013. As of today Jan. 20, 2013, my shedding has decreased tremendously!!! I used to shed 50 to 100 strands a day, but today, I only shedded 6 hairs with the bulbs at the ends! My hair is so much stronger, and it's not breaking as easily while wet or damp as it used too!!!  I would recommend this rinse to anyone experiencing a lot of shedding! My next rinse will be on Tuesday Jan. 29, 2013. Here is some information about the Black Tea Rinse and it's benefits! Look @ how healthy my hair looks! 

                                          Black Tea For Healthy Hair

Black tea is full of antioxidants and caffeine that help hair to become stronger while helping to maintain its strength and elasticity to decrease breakage. The main benefit of caffeine located in black tea is that it blocks the DHT from causing the hair to shed, black tea helps to increase thickness and decrease hair loss when used in small doses. Caffeine is also known to stimulate hair growth when it is used once a month, you don’t want to overload your scalp with to much caffeine because it could stunt growth if you aren’t careful. Another amazing benefit to including black tea rinses into your healthy hair care regimen is the sheen, luster, and natural darkness it brings. Using black tea is great for women who have dark black or brown hair and want to ward off gray hair or fading hair dyes.

Black tea rinses can be used once or twice as a part of your hair care regimen. Boil 6 cups of water, and add 3 bags of tea , let it sit for at least an hour to give it time to cool down. Pour the tea rinse directly on your hair then wrap your hair up in a towel to prevent the tea from running down on to your body. Leave the black tea rinse on for an hour or two then wash or co-wash your hair as you normally would.

How I retain length by "Sunshyne of Hairlista"

I pretty much follow Sunshyne's methods because she knows what it takes to grow healthy, long hair! I am a hairlista because of her! :-) Go to her article about how she retains length! The link is below!

How I retain length by "Sunshyne of Hairlista" 

"Hairlista Inc's" Regimen Building for Newbies 101

I got this from Hairlista! Thanks to Sunshyne, we can start an informed healthy hair journey!

I am a hairlista! :-)

Regimen Building for Newbies 101 

The most important key to building a solid regimen is finding your own hair tolerance. Everyone's hair is unique. What works for someone may not work for you. Hair can be moisturized, supple one day and dry and brittle the next. It's important that you build your regimen around these factors and address these circumstances within your regimen.

Tip: The more you do to your hair chemically the more moisture and protein the hair will need.

YOU WILL NEED:
1 Moisturizing Shampoo. This should be used 1-2x/week depending on your schedule. Choose a shampoo that is Sodium/Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate free. These ingredients tend to strip the hair making it feel squeaky clean. These shampoo's listed below, leave the hair detangled and soft. Here are some examples:

Creme of Nature (red and green label) Shampoo, Kenra Moisturizing Shampoo, Elucence Moisture Benefits, Neutrogena Triple Moisture Cream Lather Shampoo, Elasta QP Creme Conditioning Shampoo

1 Clarifying Shampoo. A clarifying shampoo should be used 1-2x/month if you are heavy handed with your products/oils etc. By using this shampoo you will remove dirt, build up. It's a great way of starting your hair off fresh for the month. Your hair should feel squeaky clean. Here are some examples:

Pantene Pro-V Purity Shampoo, Suave Shampoos, Nexxus aloe rid shampoo, Avalon Organics Lemon and shea butter, Ion clarifying shampoo

1 Moisturizing Conditioner & 1 Protein Conditioner. You should follow up with one of these conditioners after every wash. Use either one depending on what your hair needs at the time. I would recommend deep conditioning the hair for 30-45mins preferably with heat (hooded dryer). Protein conditioners are used for rebuilding the hair and giving it strength. Protein conditioners should be followed by a moisturizing deep conditioner to restore moisture and elasticity to the hair. Here are some examples of moisturizing conditioners:

Elucence Moisture Balancing Conditioner, Silk Elements Moisturizing Treatment, KeraCare Humecto, Mizani Moisturefuse, Elasta QP DPR-11, Creme of Nature Nourishing Conditioner, Kenra Moisturizing Conditioner

Here are some examples of Protein Conditioners:

ORS Hair Mayo, Aphogee 2 min reconstructor, Nexxus Keraphix, Affirm 5 n 1, Aphogee 2 Step, Nexxus Emergencee, Motions CPR, Elasta QP Anti Breakage Serum

1 Leave-in conditioner. This should be used after washes or as a daily moisturizer. Here are some examples:

Neutrogena Triple Moisture Silk Touch Leave-in, Elasta QP H-Two Leave-in, Herbal Essences Long Term Relationship Leave-in, Cantu Shea Butter, Salerm 21, Lacio Lacio

Water based moisturizer (1 Moisturizer). Use daily to hydrate the hair. I recommend using your moisturizer 1-2x/day (morning & night). Here are some examples:

Moisturizing: S-Curl, Hollywood Beauty Olive & Carrot Oil, ORS Olive Oil, ORS Carrot Oil, Wave Nouveau Finishing Lotion Protein: Cantu Shea butter, Elasta QP Mango Butter, Profective Healthy ends

Natural Oils are used for sealing in water based moisturizers. Add a light coating of oil to the ends of the hair and work your way up. Don't over do it now!!

Here are some examples: Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Extra Virgin Coconut Oil, Jojoba Oil, Safflower Oil, Castor Oil


Basic Regimen to Get You Started!

You Will Need:

1 Clarifying Shampoo
1 Moisturizing Shampoo
1 Moisturizing Deep Conditioner
1 Protein Deep Conditioner
A Leave-in Conditioner
1 Moisturizer
1 Natural Oil

Wide tooth comb
Satin/Silk Scarf and/or Satin Bonnet

- Shampoo your hair with a moisturizing shampoo 1-2x/week (Preferably sulfate free)
- Use a moisturizing deep conditioner with heat (At least 30mins) after every shampoo
- Always follow up with a leave-in conditioner
- Use a water-based moisturizer 2x/day (Morning & night) then seal in the moisture with a natural oil
- Always wear a satin/silk scarf or bonnet to bed
- *If You Are Relaxed* Relax at least every 8 weeks (If You can go beyond that, even better)
- Do a protein treatment when needed (Whenever the hair feels very limp, mushy, overly soft etc.)
- Trim when needed
- Use a Clarifying shampoo (remove buildup) 1-2x/month (depending on the amount of product you use)
- Use a wide tooth comb to comb/detangle your hair. You'll experience less breakage.


That's it!! Remember to take a step back and re-evaluate your hair and your methods. LISTEN to your hair. It will tell you when something is not working well for you (i.e. Dryness, breakage etc.) Give your hair time to get adjusted. It's all about trial and error until you realize what your hair likes, then you'll see improvement.

Happy Hair Growing!!